Leg 2.1 - When Cyclone Vardha called the shots.

Photo Courtesy - Saji Chitralayam, Jibin Thomas, Dani Gorgon & Murugan Krishnan.
 

Excited for the sea leg; Shakthikulangara Harbour.

We hunkered down at the Shakthikulangara fishing port on 11^th; the kayaks were neatly lined up in front of the MEPDA office. It was a curious sight for many, fishermen came in visualizing the different ways they would make use of the craft, others came in to ask, what the commotion was all about? We tried our best to ignore the onlookers and carry on with the day’s routine.

Dani had booked a room for us to freshen up, which was across the national highway. We took turns to freshen up and have lunch. Dani’s Father was a tough guest to be with; he took us to the best hotel in town and ensured we felt comfortable on his watch; that would continue though the night. A group headed out to Kollam town to purchase food items for the sea leg.

Dinner at Dani's home; Amazing food and hospitality.

Dinner was arranged at Dani’s house; walking distance from the port. We were treated to the magic of Dani’s Mothers cooking! All varieties of sea food & Mutton Stew (less spicy for Jim, made seperately); with appam and rice. After dinner, Two of us decided to sleep at the MPEDA office verandah as others went to the room. Vardha(Cyclone are named in India, as done by the US, NOAA) was all over the news channel and the fishermen were praying for the winds to die down. Dani’s Father was with us all night, like a guardian angel; awake and answering questions from curious onlookers, as we slumbered. The port grew in activity past 2AM, as the trawlers started coming in for unloading the catch. People came by walk and in all kinds of vehicles; from bicycles to large refrigerated trucks. As predicted by the local fishermen, the winds died down past the moon passing the zenith and with it came swarms of mosquitos that even odomos could not repel. It was 4AM when we got up and took a tour with Dani’s Father of the jetty; filled with wholesalers, retailers and auctioneers. There was a pattern to the commotion; dedicated landing zones for the catch, with auction calls only the trained ears could decipher. Fish was in plenty, so where squids, crabs, octopus and shellfish. Mother Ocean had sustained us for eons, and in spite of all the destruction humans were causing, she looked benevolent. We walked on imagining ….how long Mother Ocean would support our indifference?

The early morning tea.

We took turns to utilize the room and get ready for the day. Dani arrived with two new kayaks for the sea leg. The new kayaks were rigged, and we were ready to launch by 7AM. White caps were visible on swells in the ocean. We were advised to return if the wind picked up speed. Cyclone Vardha was heading for Chennai and her affect could be felt in the Arabian Sea. We pushed out of the cove,  balancing the swells and navigating the crowded waterways, heading for Open Ocean.

What we throw in sea, will come back to haunt us! Garbage at the cove next to Shakthikulangara Harbour, Kollam.

Except Pappu, the others in this group of six were venturing to sea for a second time. Similar conditions in the backwater on multiple expeditions had given us some preparation for sea conditions and subdue sea sickness. The winds grew stronger, the rolls got bigger and Pappu was the first to get hit with sea sickness. Returning fishermen in small skiffs told us to look out as the wind would get stronger and there was no place to land before we reached our destination for the day – Azheekal Harbour, around 27km north.

The clouds, courtesy cyclone Vardha.

A sudden rain cell developed on the north western side and started drizzling. The sea became more choppy, forcing us to make the decision for the day. First we decided to head back to port and at the same time the rain cell disappeared, as we decided to head north. Fishermen coming in warned of the sea becoming more choppy and with Pappu’s condition not improving, we decided to head back.

Heading back to Port; Kollam.

Decision was made to take the inland route to Azheekal and restart the sea leg from there. It was past 8AM, when we went past the fishing port and halted briefly below the Neendakara bridge to give Pappu some bearing on Terra fir-ma. Dani’s Father, who had not rested, came in a two wheeler and took Pappu home to recuperate.

Neendakara Bridge, Kollam.

We towed Pappus kayak and headed to Dalavapuram church, a familiar landing place with a local eatery close by. Decision was taken to head north and see if we can camp at Alumkadav. Joseph uncle; our guardian and supporter from past expeditions was not at Dalavapura  and it was sad that we did not get to meet him. After breakfast and taking turns to tow the kayak, we pushed north, it was 930AM.  

Church at Dalavapuram, Kollam.

Going past the Chavara Canal, Vattakaya and South Kozhikode, we reached Alumkadav by 230PM, paddling in hot sun. Babu Chetan was surprised to see us come back. We told him about our abandoned plan, as we made ourselves comfortable over lunch, served with local delicacies. It was late in the day, when Dani’s Father arrived with Pappu in a rickshaw. Pappu felt much better and wanted to give the sea another try, as soon as Vardha relented. Dani’s Father shared the news of rough sea and told us to skip Azeekal for Thottapally for the sea leg. He felt that the sea would be more welcoming after two days. We said our goodbyes to Dani’s Father and headed for dinner. At 930PM, the kayaks were emptied and brought ashore as  Babu Chetan decided to close shop. We rearranged the furniture in the hotel and slept; two of us sleeping in the verandah and Dani sleeping next to the kayaks, on an open platform.  Babu Chetan and family promised to wake us up at 4AM, when they would be back for their daily routine. The day had ended with a change of plan; we covered 21KM - one has to be flexible with nature for she is ever powerful; inviting only those who can dance to her tunes and not the other way around!

Babu Chetans hotel, Alumkadavu.

At sharp 4AM, Babu Chetan and his wife came as promised and so did local fishermen who had cast their gill nets. The fishermen came to Alumkadav every day to have tea, before heading back to retrieve the nets.

Small talk with local kids.

We woke up in haste and vacated the hotel for its routine customers. After the morning tea, we launched the kayaks past 5AM. We decided to take the sea at Thottapally and pushed north past Ayiram Thenggu to reach the Kayankulam Kayal.  We stopped at Pullukulangara for breakfast and after scouting few hotels for Dosha, we were lucky to find one where a lady and her Father found it tough to serve six hungry souls, who ate faster than they could cook! We pushed on; after a brief stop at Kanakakunnu, we reached the locks at Thrikunnapuzha at 1PM.

Sleeping in a Trawler, Thrikunnapuzha.

The leg from the Kayankulam Kayal to the locks via the small canal was an uphill task, with strong flows to the south, as the locks were open. Past the locks we grouped next to a trawler that was being painted. The folks on the trawler were quite inviting, asking us to have lunch nearby and leave the kayaks for them to watch over.

If you are tired, you just need a ground!

Thottapally was another 10 KM away and after a hard backwater crossing the need for rest was high on every ones mind. After a break of 2 hours with nap, we pushed against the current towards Thottapally. It was a long day, dusk was round the corner and reaching Thottapally looked like and Everest ascent.

Sipping tea at Thottapally

We pulled ashore at the tea shop we had stopped going southbound, some tea and snacks would get our spirits back. Saji helped with a local contact for us to stay overnight and park the kayaks. The plan was to use the following day to rest and practice sea kayaking, before sea leg on 15th. We had paddled 33KM, with tides that made the effort herculean. The family that gave us shelter was kind enough and we agreed to move out to the sea side the next day. After a good nights rest, few of us and Jim went to explore the sea condition and a suitable place to camp. Saji also sent a vehicle to transport the kayaks. With sea conditions improving, we decided to camp at the Thottapally harbor and use the day for practice. 

The coastal police mock drill posters at Thottapally harbor.

We saw posters for a coastal security exercise next day and this coincided with out sea leg! Though we had intimated the Coastal Police about our plan, we decided to visit the  local police station and be sure of things to come. We ended up visiting them twice, with very different experience.

Practicing launch and recovery at Thottapally beach.

We took the down time to paddle out to sea and do some assisted rescue, launch and recovery from the beach. The sea was rough as the sun climbed to its zenith. It was late in the day when we paddled back to the harbor. Saji was much helpful with pictures he took of our practice and to help with local logistics, including lunch at a toddy shop! Saji also arranged a gala dinner at his place, which we enjoyed in turns.

At the Toddy shop next to Thottapally spillway.

The Harbor was dark with no lights in the area we had camped, few cats kept visiting the kayaks for a free meals. Pappu, who had kayaked from Alumkadavu to Thottapally, was sea sick again, he and his Kayak were ferried to Saji's house. We were now five for the leg that starts from 15th December.

With Saji from Green Roots Turtle Conservation, Thottapally Beach.

There would be no support boat, no contacts to seek help and no designated place to camp. We have to take it as it comes, scared and excited about the sea leg.