Leg 1 - Inland - Kumarakkom to Kollam in 3 days.

Photo Courtesy - Dr. Praveen, Dani Gorgon & Murugan Krishnan.

We woke up early, around 4AM. It was a busy start, with lot of stuff to pack and return to the store. After having a cup of coffee made on the Solo Stove, we made our way to the waters edge with headlamps. One by one the Kayaks were launched and it was 530AM, when we set off Southbound from Mathews Ancestral home. We could hear fisherman passing by on motorized board, as they flashed a powerful torch to scan the way ahead. We asked them about water hyacinth and were told to follow a south easterly route as we reached the bigger canal, and then head west, towards Vembanad kayal(backwaters). It was dawn, when we arrived at the big canal connecting the town of Kottayam to Allapuzha. We saw large numbers of migrating Birds mostly spot billed ducks and cormorants taking the early morning flight, flying in formations that stretched few hundred meters. 

Passing Krishnan Kutty Jetty, we hugged the northern side of R-Block, and paddled on. Hari was finding it hard to get the rhythm of kayaking, a heavy paddle and 12footer without rudder or skeg, made an uphill task. His sheer determination and strength were the only consolation as he propelled forward. We hugged along the R-block and by 7AM we had reached the eastern shores of the Vembanad Kayal(lake). After having a hydration brake and take a bearing  for the river Pamba, we paddled on. Hundreds of cormorants were hunting in flocks, as the majestic sun rose on our left. The call for breakfast grew louder and we agreed to halt at the first hotel. The wayside eateries in Kerala give a taste of local cuisine. To our surprise most places only served Porotta, a layered bread made from white flour(injurious to health, unfortunately has become the de-facto option in most tea shops). After few skips, we were forced to stop for break fast at Kannita Jetty - Porotta with egg curry, pushed down with hot sweet tea. 

It was past an hour when we pushed southward, stopping at Pallathruthi bridge to pickup the spare PFD. The sun was now getting hotter and we pushed hard, hoping to reach Karumadi. This was a place we had stopped many a times and were familiar with Ambily Hotel, that served fresh Kerala specialties, breakfast, lunch and dinner. We had stopped here in all the past expeditions. With the hot sun beating down, Karumadi looked as far as Timbuktu. We pushed on, one paddle stroke at a time. Around 11AM, we could see the canal branching off at Amabalapuzha, as our hopes of reaching Karumadi spurred again. The tide was surprisingly in our favor and within 20 minutes we reached Karumadi and found a desolate space to camp. The kayaks were recovered and we took turns to have breakfast, wash clothes and sleep. The 29KM of kayaking on day 1, was tough, yet there was joy for the camping place was just perfect.  The bath in the river had charged us up and we slept in the grass to make up for the early rise. The tides were pushing water back and forth and we wondered how it would impact us the following morning. Large quantities of water hyacinth were seen floating down with the tide. Once in a while, a house boat would go past out campsite. 

We used Ambily Hotel to charge the mobiles and power banks and left them there at lunch, to pickup when we came back for Dinner. Breakfast, Lunch, Tea and Dinner was at Ambily Hotel, right on the state highway that links Amabalapuzha to Thiruvalla. It was at Dinner that we got to know that our arrival and camping was noticed by the locals, with displeasure about our attire. 

A local drunkard was sharing the same at the hotel when few of us walked in. Ambily Chetan(Ex Army) who was at the counter in the evening, welcomed us and wanted to know more about the group of "Knicker wearing strangers". He voiced a sense of loss that our visit was not utilized by them to educate the locals and kids about kayaking and our expedition.

He shared his support and agreed to visit us, to see the kayaks, before we went to sleep. It was past 10PM, when he came with his friends(they form a group called Karumadi Kuttans, a self help group). Post the visit, we went to sleep in the three tents we had pitched. 

The call came at 4AM to wake up, coffee was prepared and we departed by 5AM. We had gone may be few kilometers when we encountered a large patch of water Hyacinth. The tide was stationery and we had to cut through it. We rafted up and one of us stood on the kayak to measure the patch. It was 100meteres wide, we took turns to push our way to the other side.

Pappu devised the technique of pushing against the hyacinth to propel another kayak forward, then alternating. After loosing half an hour in the entire effort, we were now free to kayak. It was past 7AM, when we reached Thottapally. 

On the southern side of the spillway, next to the walk over bridge, a couple runs a tea shop, which was our target for the days breakfast. We were joined by Saji, who runs the Green roots Turtle conservation effort at Thotapally, with a group of friends. We would visit the shack every year and have the largest bill for the day; gobbling up multiple teas and all the specialties they had to offer. We pushed on after the breakfast, updating Saji about our plan to see him on the beach, few days hence. Our northerly route would be in sea with Thotapally as a stop over.

The group was finding the day easy as the target for the day was around 20KM. Our destination was the house of Theater personality Mr. Kanakakunnu Prasad, whom we got to know from past trips. Kanakakunnu is West of Kayankulam, and is well connected by road. After the amazing breakfast, we pushed on, going past Ashan Smarakam and KV Jetty to arrive at the locks of Thrikannapuzha. We made our way past the locks and Coir Village to reach the northern edge of the Kayankulam Kayal(lake).

Grouping up for a snack/water break, we took a bearing to reach Kanakakunnu. We pushed on, conscious to remain clear of the NTPC Power plant, on the eastern banks. Kayakers were detained here few years back for security reasons. It was 1030AM, when we reached Kanakakunnu.

Landing was celebrated with few glasses of Nannari Sarbath(lemonade) and we set up camp and were happy to be in one of the most picturesque locations of the trip. Kayankulam Kayal, that we now saw was much different from our first expedition of 2014. In 2014, the boating channel had Chinese fishing nets on either side, as far as the eyes could see. It looked like a magical canopy, that the boat had to pass through. Work on the waterway to make it more navigable for boats had resulted in all the Chinese fishing nets being removed. What remained today were submerged stems that one had to watch out for. 

Kayankulam Kayal, 2014 - Chinese Fishing nets on either side of the boating channel.

Hari, Dr. Praveen and Pappu were at ease with the kayak and the distance we had for the day, having clocked 22KM. Food was pre-ordered at a local shop by Prasad Chettan(Elder Brother). We marveled at the shack Prasad Chettan and his son had made, all by themselves. After Dinner, we chatted up with him and called it a day by 930PM. The next days target was to reach Kollam; end of the first leg. It was going to be a long day. 

Pappu relaxing under the CPI(M) flag at Kanakakunnu Jetty.

After the morning coffee, we pushed on southbound for Kollam. The night lights were playing tricks with us, the bridge we were looking for, turned out to be the lights of a resort! Paddling on, the Tsunami Bridge came on horizon at dawn. We pushed on, through the Kayankulam Kayal, the tide was reaching its peak and the inflow was not of much concern. If we did not cross the sea mouth at Azheekal soon, the receding tide would be a tough job. 

This sense of urgency made us push hard, it was 730AM, when we went past Valiazheekal and then Azheekal, to reach Ayiram Thengu. The call for Breakfast was getting vocal and we all agreed to push to Vallikavu, where we were sure of good eateries. Reaching Vallikavu, the shops were not open, being a Sunday.

 

We decided to push breakfast until we reached Alumkadavu, a known place, few kilometers away. It was 845AM, when we landed at Alumkadavu jetty. Babu Chetan's(Elder brother) tea shop was surprised and welcoming, to see us arrive from the north. This was the first time we had pushed southbound, all past expeditions were in the other direction. 

We settled in the shop verandah as Babu Chetan and his family dished out local delicacies. Another group headed east to try some Dosha(local pancakes). We pushed southbound after saying our good byes and the promise of meeting next year. Winding our way in the hot sun, passing south Kozhikode, we reached Vattakayal. Crossing Vattakayal, we entered Chavarathodu, the narrow passage, running parallel to the sea, where KMML does mining of metals from sea sand.

 

The sun was at 12 Noon, when we went past Kovilthottam and made our way to Ashtamudi Kayal. It was 1PM, as we pushed to the next bank on the other end. The tide was going out and this helped us get some speed. The final landing zone was not that far, yet confusion persisted as to where it would be? Is it on Shaktikulangara or on Neendakara side. 

Soaking in Shade, just before entering Ashtamudi Kayal.

With the tide, we pushed on and went past the Dalavapuram Bridge and took a sharp right towards the sea. The ebbing water was so low, we were focusing on being in the channel. The poles put up by local fishermen were adding to the danger. As we moved on, the Neendakara Bridge came into view, the water was gushing out with increasing force. As we passed the Neendakara bridge, calls rant out on seeing Dolphins, they were in pairs, big ones. By this time, word arrived by Whats app on the exact landing spot. We had to land in a cove, past the harbor on the Shakthikulangara side. The outgoing tide looked intimidating, the swells from the sea were coming at us, there were trawlers and other boats heading back to port, we had to watch out. Going past the harbor and making a sharp left, we could see landing spot. The place was filled with filth and stagnant water bubbling with hydrogen sulfide.

Dani was no where to be seen, yet we landed and with lot of reluctance pulled the kayak ashore. Everyone was exhausted, we had done 35KM, with a lot of paddling in hot sun. A short while after, Dani, His Father and Jim arrived with lots of Tender coconut water. The time was 2PM! We generally tend to take a break during the peak sun hours of 1030-1530, today, we pushed ourselves hard to reach the final destination of our first leg. Hari and Dr.  Praveen would go back to Trichur and Chennai, after lunch. We took turns to have lunch and welcomed Dani and Jim to the team, the 2nd leg will start from 12th December....Cyclone Varda is all over the news channel!