Leg 2.2 - After Vardha, there is calm.

Photo Courtesy - Saji Chitralayam, Jibin Thomas, Dani Gorgon & Murugan Krishnan.

Saying goodbye to Thottapally fishing port.

The previous day had seen speculation about equipment theft, leaving us jittery through the night. The fishing port was open to all and this kept the anxiety levels high. When a lone boat came back from fishing, we would pop our heads to peer around for the thief, who never came! It was early morning when we woke up and  Saji came along with Pappu. We took turn to have tea, as the port came to life. Saying goodbyes, we pushed for a Northern bearing towards Allapuzha, some 20KM away. 

Local fisherman on his thermocoal tri-boat!

We crossed local fishermen, too poor to afford a boat. Their ingenuity was in building small boats out of Thermocoal; they would launch at dawn, returning after a few hours. The triangle shaped contraption had the space for one person and gill nets. Taking two Aluminum plates on a long stick would make the paddle; for paddling was kayaking style! Many of them would recite a chant as they propelled from shore to sea and back. Some of them were intrigued on what we were doing, and on few occasions, Dani took time to be with them and answer any questions they had.

Business half done @ Punnapara beach!

It was past 7:30AM, when calls for breakfast arose, we intercepted a boat and got information about Punnapara beach and provisions there. We were told to go kilometer ahead and look for beach full of activity. It was close to 8AM, when we reached Punnapara, where the shore was as calm as a bowl of water.  The place was filled with mechanized boats, coming in to unload their catch. The place looked beautiful; what was tragic was the human poop on the beach! Open-public-defecation was the norm all over the place, uncovered cat-holes looked like minefield one had to navigate. One wondered, why the job was half done? All that required was to dump some sand over the cat holes, once the 'business' was over. 

Fish at Punnapara beach.

We went to the local tea shop and a group of policeman walked in to check if we were dummies, part of the coastal security drill. After verifying our documents, they let us go, with an air of failure. Back on the beach, fishermen asked for help to pull their boats ashore. We said solong to Punnapara, heading to Allapuzha, which was another 10KM ahead. 

Calm seas at Punnapara.

The sun was rising on the horizon and slowly the land breeze gave way to sea breeze. We were paddling tree lined beaches all the way from Punnapara to Allapuzha. It was 11AM when we reached Allapuzha beach and pulled over to the grove, next to the beach and set up camp.

Camping site at Allapuzha Beach.

Re-validating our Genes!

 We took turns to shower at the DTDC facility at the beach. For a reasonable payment, one could take shower and wash clothes. After lunch we slept in tents we had pitched. At night a group of folks kept coming to the area of the beach in front of our camp, looking at us from the waters edge. We were on edge and later one of them came over to ask, what the fuss was? The characters looked shady; could be drug addicts who came for their daily high to this unlit spot, to find it occupied by strangers with boats and tents. We left a light ON as we called it a day. It was the first day of sea leg, and with no prior planning or hand to help, we had managed it well. We had covered a distance of 21KM, yet, Dani's GPS showed close to 30, aided by the zigzagging paddling patterns. The night light had died down, when we woke up. The camp was closed, and kayaks lined up on the beach for launch. By 630AM, we were going past the remnants of the Allapuzha Port, heading north. As we paddled, someone called our for Dolphins. We stopped to see two of them feeding around us. Unlike what we see in Discovery/Nat Geo channel, these were in pairs. We pushed on, passing small skiffs with outboard engines and the ubiquitous  Thermocoal boats, coming back with their gill nets, piled high behind the lone fisherman.

Ready to launch from Allapuzha Beach.

As we passed a fish harbor(Kattoor), the call was made for breakfast. No soon had we landed, a lone Policeman showed up and started asking questions. We told him about our expedition, the email and visit to the coastal police station, but he insisted on all of us getting verified and wouldn't allow us to budge, unless his superiors arrived. One policeman became three and then a jeep load of them descended. We showed them our verification documents and had to endure some not so pleasant questions. It looked as thought they had finally caught up with criminals they had searched the world over and failed; caught as they magically surfaced on that beach! 

With the police team that detained us at Kattor beach, South of Mararikulam.

Following are some of the questions we found funny:

1. How expensive are these equipment? Why do you spend big money for all this(crap)?

2. Why does your work happen in corporate and not in educational institutions(management development is taught to MBA's only!)?

3. How much do you earn?

They asked for our home numbers and parents name, which we gave. Some of us visualized the scene at home, getting called from Police! Finally, an hour later, we were let off. What an experience!

After landing at Thaickal Beach.

Having lost an hour and finding no breakfast in the local shack, we were left with some tea and snacks to fill ourselves. The sun was burning as we pushed north, passing the pristine beaches of Mararikulam and regretting our stop at the fishing harbor! We went past the beach at Chethy and the church town of Arthunkal.  The sun was now baking, the sea getting rough. Our destination was Thaickal beach, west of Chertala town. The beach had rock walls to prevent erosion and the place looked difficult to land with high surf. Some of us showed early signs of sea sickness and this is where Jim took over and decided to land first, next to a football field. One by one we landed to the signals Jim gave, with hearts beating in our throats. It was treacherous and it felt great to be back on land, the sand was hot and the sun was at its peak, it was past 1PM. 

Dani sleeping on a Thermocoal Tri-boat.

We found a couple preening gill net, under a coconut tree. Reaching out to them and narrating our journey, we sought their permission to camp for the night. We settled by pulling up all the kayak, freshened up and requested a neighbor to get us an autorickshaw to go and have lunch.  As soon as we reached for the Road, a policeman arrived and asked us to wait for his superiors. It looked as if the morning was repeating itself! The Police jeep came in few minutes, large crowd gathered to see the commotion.

After the police verification at Thaickal Beach.

The Inspector was extremely courteous and polite, his way of asking questions, was an art by itself. Having thanked the locals for informing the police about arrival of strangers(latter we came to know that a dummy team had successfully landed and got inland at the same beach) and having verified who we were, it was time for lunch. After two incidents, we now had a positive experience. This interaction left us with a high, which  every citizen expects from their police. After lunch we settled in, slept, explained to locals about kayaks, washed clothes and rested. This place was amazing, people here were poor in material, but rich in heart - friendly & courteous. The talk of the village was Jim, with his long hair, only women in India would grow! After an early dinner, we pitched tents on a windswept beach edge and slept. Lot of stray dogs roamed the beach and our fear this time was of gear taken away by them! We had paddled above the daily average; done 24KM.

Sunrise at Thaickal Beach.

Next day morning was filled with activity as the friendly locals came to see us off. We launched at 630 AM heading north; our destination was Andhakaranazhi. The sea was calm, as we hugged the coast scanning for khaki, to spoil our day. We paddled on and by 745AM, the lighthouse at Andhakaranazhi came into view. It indicated the spot where we had to crossover to the freshwater side. Andhakaranazhi is a river estuary, that opens up only at Monsoon. Post Monsoon, the sea deposits sand, closing the estuary. We pulled the boats on to the beach and walked a bit for breakfast. One of the worst breakfast spots we have had all through years of paddling in Kerala was at Andhakaranazhi.

The locks at Andhakaranazhi.

The only solace was the 500ml, chilled Neera bottle we got in one of the shops. We pushed over to the backwater side by 9AM and set off for our destianation; Aroor. Jade colored stagnant water was the norm, and one had to imagine the plight of folks who lived on these banks. There were villages, most places were prawn farms, devoid of human habitation. The channel was narrow and lack of  wind meant that paddling was becoming difficult - Fowl, hot & steamy. 

Taking a break, Kondai Lip Resort.

Turning a corner, we saw a resort; Kondai Lip; and decided to take a break. We relaxed with lemonades and it was an hour, when we were back, paddling. We missed a turn, that further added distance to the day. One could see fishing all around and wondered; how, humans could mistreat and harvest from the same waters? We pushed on, fatigued and prying every corner to see if the destination had arrived. Taking breaks under coconut palm shade, sharing treats and pushing against the current; we finally arrived at Aroor past 2PM, dead tired and exhausted.  

Amazing delicacies, courtesy Seema.

The long tiring paddle was worth it; one of the best lunches ever cooked at home, awaited us - Lobsters, Pearl spots, Prawns and a host of other delicacies. Seema and Ani(Friends of Murgan), were our host for the day and one can feel at home with them. The 2nd leg is completed; Dani would return to Kollam; Murugan and Jibin decided to stop, as the next two days looked more demanding;  leaving only Jim and self. By 5PM, an Autorickshaw arrived; the kayaks were secured; Jibin and Dani, went with it. Murugan headed to Bangalore. We hunkered down for the day, having covered 24KM. The total distance in sea was at 70KM, as the crow flies. 

Ready to go back.

Third leg starts tomorrow, a total of 66KM, which we will attempt to complete in 2 days!